October 27th 2017
Hello again everyone, it’s Suzie here to share my second blogger make for Sewisfaction.
Today I am sharing a Wiksten Tova made out of the beautiful Midnight Monet Cotton Lawn. I would guess that a lot of you may not have heard of the Tova before, if you are relatively new to the online sewing community. It was probably released around about 2010 and was very popular with the fledgling sewing blogger scene back then, but, has since faded into the background a bit now that there are so many more new sewing patterns on the market. A shame really, because it is such a lovely tunic pattern, with enough interesting details to flex your creative muscles.
I have made this top once before, in a medium weight wool blend. It comes out of hibernation every Autumn and is a true staple in my Autumn/Winter wardrobe. I always knew that I needed to make another one, ideally in a lighter weight fabric and with a few tweaks. So that is exactly what I have done! You may have noticed that my version is a little bit different from the line drawings above.
No Mandarin collar and the addition of long sleeves. As much as I like the neckline of the Tova, I always felt that the Mandarin/Grandad collar never really sat quite right. Add to that the fact that I like slightly lower necklines, and you can see why I decided to change it up a bit this time around. I used a French Curve to scoop out the front of the bib and added three buttons to the placket, which are actually just decorative (with the placket sewn down) because I can easily fit this over my head. The neckline was then finished with bias binding.
I also opted to lengthen the sleeves. I love the slightly voluminous three-quarter sleeves of the original Tova, but they are not made for pairing with a cardigan, and I LIVE in cardigans (it’s all about the layers in Northern Ireland!) so I knew they had to go this time. I ended up taking the sleeves from the Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blousebecause it includes a little opening slit, button and rouleau loop at the cuff which would mean I would be able to roll up the sleeves if I wanted to. I have to admit this is actually the first time I’ve sewn a sleeve with these details and it took me a little bit longer than I thought. Those rouleau loops are tricky little things. They turned out OK, but I will attempt to make them even smaller next time!
The final alteration I made was to curve the hem. I just find a curved hem more flattering than having the bottom of your top cut straight across the hips (my widest area!). And because I curved the hem, I used bias binding the finish the edge, as it is the easiest way of getting a lovely smooth curve.
This lovely smooth lawn was a dream to work with. So easy to press and manipulate where needed. I’ve been working with viscose, crepe and jersey so much lately, it was so refreshing to work with a fabric that just behaves and does what it’s told! And how beautiful is that print? So perfect for layering up in Autumn. But because I’ve ensured I can roll my sleeves up, I know I will be wearing this well into the Spring when the weather starts to warm up again.