Hi, I’m back again with another make and I am super pleased with this one as it encompasses two of my favourite things – denim and the colour mustard. I recently watched Sheona’s Vlog highlighting some of the gorgeousness she had just added to the shop and from them all this Old Gold Denim really caught my eye.
I was trying to think of something that I could use it for that would be a little different from anything I had made before. I had been toying with the idea of making a Sew Over It Coco for a while but I wasn’t keen on the way it was unlined. I could have of course drafted a lining myself but then I stumbled upon the Coco Jacket by Schnittchen Patterns.
I really liked the fact the Schnittchen Coco was slightly longer and had shaping in both the front and back. I also really like the curved detail on the front pieces at both the collar and hem.
To compliment the denim I chose this gorgeous Mustard Sprig Rayon which I have also had my eye on for a little while. The fabrics were even more gorgeous in real life and went straight in the washing machine as soon as they were unpacked (pre-washing is crucial with viscose as it shrinks so much).
As indicated above the jacket is fully lined and the pattern provides separate pattern pieces for the lining rather than instructing you to cut the outer pieces down which is brilliant as I am not a tracer.
I have never used Schnittchen Patterns before but I have to admit if you are relatively new to sewing be warned the instructions are sparse. When I say sparse I mean sparse. The instructions are clear but there are no diagrams or images to help with construction just a bullet point list of steps. The steps are pretty clear but you really need to have an idea of the construction of a jacket to understand what you are doing. I have made quite a few coats/jackets before so the construction appeared relatively straightforward.
For me, everything came together really quickly and easily save for the darts which I found slightly confusing to start with. Unlike other patterns I have used in the past you are required to partially cut the darts out of the fabric and then line up the cut edges and sew using the same seam allowance as in all other areas to sew the dart to the point. I noticed from the website that there was a helpful photo tutorial on the Schnittchen website for the jacket which made this step a lot clearer. I didn’t experience any other problems or make any alterations and the sleeves went in first time without any puckers which alone gives this pattern a massive thumbs up from me as hate inserting sleeves!! The whole thing took me just a few hours to complete.
One thing I did change was to sew the lining to the sleeves at the hem before I turning the jacket through to minimise hand stitching. This is a method I learnt when sewing my first Closet Case Patterns Clare Coat and I always use it. I also hand stitched the lining to the outer of the jacket at the underarm to stop the sleeve lining from pulling forward when I put the jacket on.
The pattern doesn’t tell you to catch the hem to the centre back seam allowance either which I think is a must to ensure it doesn’t fold down whilst you are wearing it. The jacket is turned through a hole in the sleeve lining and therefore it has a really clean finish along the hem and the lining is secured all around with just a little hand sewing at the lower corners.
I am in love with this jacket and think I will get a lot of wear out of it both as part of my casual wardrobe but also with my smarter pieces. The colour of the denim is amazing and both fabrics such lovely quality they were both a dream to work with and sew.
This is also a really economic pattern as the lining only uses 1 metre of fabric and the outer 1.2 metres. I am really pleased with the fit and would definitely make this jacket again. I have seen some really lovely versions online and it would be perfect in a wool for the winter.
Anyway that’s all from me – Happy sewing!!