Well, I’m back with another post for the Sewisfaction Blog and once again was faced with the extremely difficult task of deciding which fabric to choose from such an array of loveliness.
As autumn is creeping in I have found myself leaning more towards trousers and away from skirts and dresses. I have made a couple of pairs of wide-leg trousers recently which have been in heavy rotation in my work wardrobe. I think I am not quite ready to make the transition into tights and boots!
Anyway, after the success of my other wide-leg trousers, I saw this gorgeous Robert Kaufman Shetland Flannel which Sheona recently added to the shop. The fabric has a speckled finish which is a mixture of blue and black which I thought, in a pair of wide leg trousers, would be the perfect addition to my wardrobe.
The fabric has the softest brushed texture which feels lovely against the skin and has the perfect structure for a wide leg. I chose to go with the Nina Lee Portobello Trousers because it is a pattern that has been on my radar for some time, but I have to admit I was a little unsure about the front pleats and whether they would be flattering. I recently made some other trousers with a similar detail and am pleased to confirm that my concerns were unfounded, I love them.
I opted for the PDF pattern but Sheona also stocks the paper pattern if you are not into all the printing and sticking that comes with PDF assembly.
As you can see the Portobello Trousers have pleats in the front and they also have darts in the back. The pattern provides for side seam pockets and therefore the zip is intended to be inserted in the back seam. However, as I chose not to insert the pockets I moved the zip to the right-hand side seam. This is really easy to do on this pattern as the waistband is just one long piece which is folded in half to make an all in one faced waistband. Therefore, to change the zip placement you simply move the waistband short edges round to the side seam instead of at the back.
This pattern also has an overlapped waistband where a button and buttonhole is to be inserted with the zip finishing at the top of the leg pieces rather than going all the way through the waistband. I prefer the finish of the zip going right through the waistband and therefore I didn’t bother with the button and buttonhole and shortened the waistband to remove the excess for the button overlap.
Finally, I added some length as I am 5’ 7” and usually wear a 36” leg. Although the pattern doesn’t provide an inseam measurement it seemed a little short to me so I added 3” I probably should have added another inch as I only turned up 1.5” for the hem and would rather it was a little wider. For reference, I made a size 8 (my measurements are W25” and H36”) and the fit was pretty good but I could definitely have sized down. I also took the crotch curve in from about midway down the back seam to midway up the front by about 1” as they were really baggy.
As far as trousers go this pattern is really straightforward, there are no difficult construction techniques and the pleats provide a bit of interest which is a feature I am happy to say that I love despite my reservations. I think this pattern would be perfect for someone thinking about venturing into making trousers as they are relatively simple to fit as long as you get the waistband right and I personally prefer a wide leg over a straight or skinny leg so these tick all the boxes as far as I am concerned. The pattern is also a really quick make as far as trousers go, I managed to knock these out in a couple of hours including cutting out my fabric, which is great.
The fabric was amazing as always and I am sure they will keep me cosy when the weather cools down so I am hoping to get lots of wear out of these trousers over the coming months. I would definitely make these trousers again but would size down next time and add a little more lengthy. I also think they would also be perfect as culottes if you were to shorten them from a double or triple crepe.
Thanks for stopping by and happy sewing!!