Happy New Year Everyone! Well I’m back and it is once again my turn to post for the blog. Over the Christmas period I had been swooning over Sewisfaction’s viscose crepe in the mustard colourway but given the current size of my stash had been trying to resist the January sales.
Now I am not sure if mustard really suits my skin tone but to be perfectly honest I don’t care. I love anything mustard it just screams 70s to me. This fabric is gorgeous, it is a joy to sew and unlike other crepes presses like a dream due to its viscose content. The fabric also has a lovely weight with a slight stretch. I would say it has the weight of double crepe and has a lovely textured finish. This fabric is perfect for anything you which would generally require a bottom weight fabric ie dresses, skirts trousers and even lightweight jackets.
Anyway after swooning after this fabric I decided that maybe, as I wasn’t sure if mustard would suit me, that I would add black accents so they were next to my skin. I therefore also ordered just a small amount of the luxury crepe in black which is equally as gorgeous but definitely a lighter weight and doesn’t have a textured finish.
After seeking out a tutorial to add a peter pan collar and also deciding to add cuffs I was set to go. I chose the Colette Laurel Dress which is a simple shift dress. The dress has a concealed zip, bust darts and french darts at the back. The dress is also finished at the neckline and sleeve hems with bias binding.
Well, I drafted the collar but once attached I wasn’t sure I liked it and I couldn’t seem to get it to look right in the centre. So the collar came back off again and I decided to also forgo the cuffs as I actually quite liked the mustard as it was.
I had some issues with the sizing of this pattern as for my measurements it told me to go for a size 2. Unfortunately, as always, I should have paid more attention to the finished measurements as this dress has a massive amount of ease built in and turned out enormous. I am still not convinced the bust darts are in the right place for me and I had to take the dress in overall by about an inch on each side and took an inch wedge out of the back of the neckline but as you can see the neckline is still quite wide on me and I could possibly have taken a little bit more out.
If I were to make this dress again I would definitely cut the next size down and may even take it in a little further. I also cheated and decided not to add a zip as a few blog posts I had read mentioned that the zip was unnecessary as you could totally get it over your head without. This was fortunately true and I have absolutely no trouble getting this dress over my head without the zip but I think the stretch in the fabric totally helps with that.
Anyway the next hurdle was inserting the sleeves as there is an awful lot of easing in the sleeve head which creates a slight puff sleeve. I love the effect but it was a bit of a pain so if you are not experienced in inserting sleeves be warned.
I finished my neckline with black satin bias binding as a facing but decided not to use binding on the sleeve hems and just turn them up as normal I assume this is for those who don’t have an overlocker in order to create a neat finish. I am also sure given that Colette patterns are designed to teach and add to your sewing skills and therefore the reason for using binding and also for adding the zip.
I had some reservations mid-way through sewing this dress due to the amount of alterations required to get the fit I wanted but now it is finished I really love it. I am happy with the way it is fitted at the shoulders and bust flowing out around the hip area.
I am happy to report that I managed to get it finished to wear on a girls night out, which was my intention, and that it was perfect. The majority of my problems were due to user error as I should have checked the finished measurements, baste fitted it together and taken more time over marking my darts.
I will definitely make this pattern again and think the top version could become a wardrobe staple but would remove the back seam and again forego the zipper. Also, I would size down and for anyone intending to make this dress my measurements are Bust 34”, Waist 25” and Hip 36” and I made the size 2 with the adjustments outlined above.
I also have some of the viscose crepe in the burgundy colourway and am currently making some wide leg trousers and I think they are going to be awesome as this fabric is just dreamy.